Compost Happens

Why Do my Worms Escape

March 10, 2012

Lately I have received a few emails where   worms are trying to escape from their worm bins; So  I decided to give some assistance to you, to understand why this may be happening

The first thing to check is temperature, pH and moisture levels of your worm bin. If any or a combination are not correct, your worms maybe trying to let you know of unfavorable conditions, and  in search of greener pastures. If this is true, you will want to rectify the problem so as not to end up killing off your worms.

Temperature plays a vital role in keeping your worms happy. The rate in which your food scraps will begin to breakdown permitting growth of beneficial microbes for your worms. An ideal temperature is 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit inside the bedding material of your worm bin.  If you add to many green products to your worm bin, raising the pH level, the temperature will also increase, heating the bin, potentially to high.

If your pH is off, usually the result of being too acidic, Stop adding anymore green scraps to your worm bin for a while until you rectify to an acceptable pH level of 6 to 7. You could add some agricultural lime or crushed egg shells to assist in lowering and maintaining proper pH levels. Also add more brown products for a while such as shredded newspapers and cardboard.

Moisture levels are a common issue as the food scraps added to the worm bin release additional moisture as they decompose. This is especially true for certain fruits and vegetables such as cucumbers, melons… This is probably one of the most common reasons people have an issue with worms trying to escape. Moisture levels should be approximately 70% to 75%, no matter which type of worm you are raising, red wigglers, African nightcrawlers or European nightcrawlers.

To begin drying the worm bin and to assist in keeping your worms from escaping, add some shredded newspaper to the top few inches of your worm bin. Worms prefer not to crawl through dry newspaper. This will usually this will keep many of them below the dry paper.

Another trick is to leave the lid off in a room where you can leave the light on. This serves a dual purpose. The first permits more ventilation, allowing your worm bin to dry out faster. Secondly, the light helps to keep the worms from poking their heads out as light disturbs them,  keeping them down inside the bedding.

It’s always a good idea to keep a light over the bin for the 1st couple of days of a new worm bin. Till they get used to there new home.

Category:

Composting Worms, European Nightcrawlers, Red Wigglers, Worm Bins

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Worm Composting Basics

December 13, 2011

Worm composting (Vermiculture) is a fun way to make fertilizer from food scraps! It is excellent for small spaces and kids love it. It can be easy to do, but takes a little more effort than basic composting. Here are some keys to success.

Purchase a bin or build one out of wood, plastic, or a barrel. Your bin Should be to be 10 to 16 inches deep, have holes in the bottom or sides for ventilation, and have a snug-fitting lid. To keep rodents out, the holes need to be ¼-inch or smaller. The rule of thumb for bin size is two square feet of surface area per person. An average two-person house would need a bin about 4 square feet, or two bins that are each 1 foot by 2 feet.

Locate your bin where it will not freeze or overheat—in a pantry, laundry room or basement. Or you can keep your bin in your garden, garage or porch area, and move it inside or insulate it during the winter

Worms like to live under lots of Shredded moist paper or leaves. This helps keep them cool and moist, gives them fiber to eat, and prevents fruit flies from getting to their food. To make your worm bed, Shread Paper and fluff them up, then moisten them with a spray bottle so they are completely moist but not dripping. Fill your bin three-quarters full with this moist bedding. Shredded cardboard, leaves, compost, Do not use glossy paper or magazines But most color paper is just fine since most ink is soy based.

Compost worms are often called “red worms” or “red wigglers.” Their scientific name is Eisenia fetida. They are different from earthworms and nightcrawlers, which live underground. You can find red wigglers in an old compost pile, get them from a friend’s worm bin, or buy them from a worm farm.. Start with one to two pounds of worms, depending on the Size of your Family.

Give your worms about a quart (one pound) of fruit and vegetable trimmings, then leave them alone for a week or so while they get used to their new home. After that, feed your worms about half their body weight of food scraps per week. To avoid fruit flies and odors, bury food under the bedding. Always keep a 4- to 6-inch layer of fresh bedding over the worms and food in your bin. Add fresh bedding at least once every couple months. Keep bedding as moist as a wrung-out sponge. In a plastic bin, add dry bedding to absorb excess moisture. Wooden bins may require adding water occasionally.

You can start harvesting worm compost two to three months after you set up your bin. Simply pour the contents of the bin out on a black plastic bag in the sun. The worms will try and avoid the bright sun light, then simply swipe your hand over the top moving some of the compost to the side. The worm will continue to seek shelter. Soon you will have a ball of worms that you can put right back in your bin.  To keep your worms healthy, harvest when it looks crowed.

You can continue worm composting all winter long if your bin is in an area that does not freeze (a pantry, laundry room, basement, or heated garage or porch). Or, you can let your worms rest through the winter outside by burying the bottom half of your bin in the ground and piling straw or leaves around and on your bin for insulation. You do run the risk of losing your worms outdoors during an uncommonly cold winter.

Happy Worming

Category:

Composting Worms, Red Wigglers, Vermiculture, Worm Bins

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Doggie Poo Compost

November 4, 2011

I thought I would share some Photos of my Doggie Poo Compost.   I have two dogs which have no concept of moderation.  LOL. I use recycled wine barrels each barrel is in a different stage of composting.  I don’t use this compost on my vegetable Garden, but rather in my flower beds , and Lawn.  I mix shredded Paper with the doggie Poo.  I’m using a mix of composting worms. Mostly European Night Crawlers, I was using Indian Blue but last winter was so cold they were almost wiped out.  They do a great job turning the waste product in to usable compost.  I think this is a great way of keeping the pathogens out of our landfills and water supply.  Compost Happens..

DONT WORRY ABOUT THE COMPOST STILL HAVING A BAD PATHOGENS. THE WORMS CLEAN ABOUT 95% OF THE PATHOGENS AWAY. ITS JUST BEST TO BE SAFE AND NOT USE ON YOUR VEGETABLE. GARDEN

Update:

One of the early concerns with vermicomposting was that this process, because it did not reach the high temperatures of conventional composting, did not destroy potentially dangerous pathogens. In recent years, however, strong evidence has surfaced that worms do indeed destroy pathogens, although the manner in which this occurs is still unknown. The best information in this regard comes from Florida, where the Orange County Environmental Protection Division carried out a study to assess the ability of the vermicomposting process to meet Class A standards for biosolids stabilization. The results of this study showed that vermicomposting could indeed be used as a method for destroying pathogens, with a success rate equal to conventional composting (Eastman, 1999; Eastman et al, 2000). More recently, Dr. Elaine Ingham has found in her research that worms living in pathogen-rich material, when dissected, show no evidence of pathogens beyond the first five millimeters of their gut. In other words, something inside the worm destroys the pathogens, leaving the castings pathogen-free (Appelhof, 2003).
These findings have implications

Category:

Composting Worms, Doggie Poo Composting, European Nightcrawlers, Flower Garden, Recycling

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Vermiponics (Hydroponics with Worms)

October 7, 2011

About a month ago I was talking to a Worm Farmer friend of mine,and he has been telling me about this hydroponic Unit he has been playing with.  So I decided to give it a try. I planted Broccoli in my raised garden and in my new Vermiponic Unit. The Results after 3 1/2  Weeks has been surprisingly shocking to say the least. The Pictures are of what was planted  (4) in my raised bed , and 2 in the vermiponic bucket.

As you can see the growth of the bucket is about twice as fast as the raised bed.  Inside the Hydroton Rock I put 1/2 Pound of European Night Crawlers. I feed them once a week so far and the European Nightcrawlers seem to be doing well.  I’m Using a Bokashi Blend Mix to Feed them.  If all goes well I will be adding a Vermiponics Bucket to Our Store.  Stay Tuned  for more info.

Bob

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Composting Worms, Hydropoinics, Vermiponics

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Worm Tea! Is It Really That Good?

September 11, 2011

What It Is

Worm tea or worm compost tea is the liquid concentrate of worm compost which is an extraction of minerals and microbial elements from the solid compost into water.

“A primary reason for producing a compost tea is to transfer microbial biomass, fine particulate organic matter, and soluble chemical components of compost into a solution that can be applied to plant surfaces and soils in ways not possible or economically feasible with solid compost.“[USDA Compost Tea Task Force Report]“.

While compost tea can be made by simply stirring, it’s made even better if continuous oxygen is incorporated into this “compost broth” which can increase the original numbers of microbes into the billions.

What It’s Not

With that said, let me state the the watery drainage that seeps out of the bottom of a bin is NOT compost tea as many sites that I have visited assert. Leaching through yet undigested food waste, this leachate (as it is known) could contain toxic anaerobic microbes that would be harmful to plants.

Not only will there be unmineralized organic compounds, but there is the potential for contamination of pathogen organisms and coliform bacteria that can come from some of the raw materials put into worm bin systems.

The best place for this leachate to go is back in the bin. That way, it gets exposed to the worm’s gut to be innoculated with good microbes and is excreted fully sanitized.

Qualities of Worm TeaThe quality of the worm tea is largely dependent on the quality and variety of feedstock used in the compost.

  • A compost made from mostly paper products will be high in fungi which is beneficial to trees and shrubs.
  • Compost made from manure/food waste will be high in bacteria which is more suitable for vegetable and flower plants.
  • The finished tea contains a range of mineralized nutrients, such as silica, nickel, selenium, and chromium.
  • Microorganisms from the worm composting process produce chitanase which can function as an insect repellent when worm tea is used as a foliar (on the leaves)application.Some of the microbes contained in various worm composts have also been shown to have disease suppressant qualities and can give some degree of protection to crops from various root and foliar pathogens.The important thing to remember when you are making a worm tea is to only make it from fully processed mature compost. The worms have completely worked the organic matter so that no raw material particles are left.Application Rates
    When using the worm compost tea, rates of application vary depending on the final use.
  • For foliar (leaf) application on most plants (with no pest or disease problems), a dilution rate of up to one part tea to 5 parts of water (with a few drops of detergent added as a wetting agent) works well. If there are signs of disease or pests, use undiluted until the plant is back in health.
  • For flower, fruit and vegetable crops, 1:5 diluted application(twice per week during rapid growth and fruit expansion) is a recommended rate.
  • For container plants, the tea can be diluted to one part of tea to two parts of water and given once every few weeks depending on plant condition.
  • For trees and shrubs, spray undiluted two weeks before bud break and then every 10-14 days at 1:5 part dilution.
  • For seedlings, mist or soak seeds prior to planting.

Category:

Composting Worms, Flower Garden, Roses, Worm Tea

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Deal Of the Day

August 30, 2011

Worm Tea Brewer

http://shop.rainbowworms.com/dailydeal_widget.asp

6.5 Gallon Terra Tea Brewer (worm Tea)

Category:

Uncategorized, Worm Tea

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How to Brew Worm Tea from Worm Castings

August 28, 2011

Lately I have come across a number of people offering recipes for brewing worm tea from worm castings as well a number of questions pertaining to their brews.

First off,worm tea has many beneficial uses! Use on all your plants,lawn,shrubs,flowers;even add a few drops to the water in vases containing fresh cut flowers to prolong life. Worm tea also helps reduce diseases in plants,blackspot on roses and other dry fungus/bacteria’s harmful to plants.

Worm tea does not smell. It may have a sweet odor when first brewing your tea for a number of hours if adding molasses,but then should dissipate. If you have worm tea that smells,get rid of it as it contains harmful organisms rather than beneficial ones!

Worm tea is not to be confused with leachate,the runoff liquid from worm bins that some folks get. If your worm bin is gathering liquid,your worm bin is too wet and you are probably having problems. The leachate is usually acidic and can smell pretty bad. Its anaerobic, and needs to be diluted.

none of my personal worm bins collects any fluids at the bottom since I maintain a constant moisture level of 70%. A moisture tool can be a good investment.

First let me make one important note here since most people receive water from a local water company via the county,city…Unless you have well water and have not added a chlorinator,there will be chlorine in your tap water.

Chlorine kills micro-organisms.

The way around this as a simple solution is to sit your water out in direct sunlight on a sunny day. Allow to sit for one day as sunlight or turn on the air pump for a couple hours this will burn up chlorine,same as it does in a swimming pool! Once you have completed this,your water should be ready to brew your own worm tea or add concentrated worm tea mix.

The amount of worm castings to add to your brew depends on the amount of worm tea you wish to make. Basically you want 1/4 cup per gallon or cup and a half per five gallon bucket. If using tea bags,be sure they are unbleached or oxygen bleached only. We offer the oxygen bleached,biodegradable tea bags at our online store at Rainbow Worms Store.

Next feed the organisms you are about to wake up,adding some molasses or ( Nutrient Solution) to the water.  Use all natural,unsulphured molasses only. You do not want to add too much. I use 1 Once per 1 gallon of water.

Next you want to aerate the water for at least 24 hours. You can use a simple aquarium aerator which you can pick up for around ten dollars. Add some tubing and aerator stone(s) you should still be at fifteen dollars or less. I Have Used the SoilSoup, and GroGreen Organics Brewers, and have found them to work much better then trying to build it myself from scratch.

OK so now you are ready to begin. Add your aerator to your water. Next add molasses and give it a quick stir. The aerator will help keep it mixed in afterwards. Next add your worm castings. You can use an old pillow case or tea bags work well. I recommend a lid to cover the top,which can just be placed,not fastened to allow air to pass through. Otherwise the aerator will make bubbles that splash around your bucket.

Now sit back and relax. Wait a minimum of 24 hours, however I recommend 48 hours if you can stand still that long . This will Depend on the temperature of the water, as to how fast its ready.

Once completed,do not throw away the worm castings. Throw them into a compost pile in the yard or garden area.

Now you have two choices. The worm tea can be sprayed directly on the leaves of your plants. Do not do this in direct sunlight or you will burn your plants due to refraction of the sun. Basically a magnifying glass held up to your plant leaves. This process is best if done early in the morning on your outdoor plants and lawn.

You can also use the worm tea to water your plants. With either method,you cannot harm your plants by adding to little or too much. This is an organic product and will not burn your plants as many store bought fertilizers will.

I recommend using the tea on Rose Bushes at least every Other Week. This will Reduce the Rust, Mildew, and Black Spots, also the Tea will chase off the Aphids, as well.

Happy Gardening

 

Category:

Flower Garden, Green Lifestyle, Roses, Worm Tea

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Going Green

You’ve likely noticed that “going green” is everywhere these days–in the news, politics, technology, and even fashion. You can hardly escape it from most angles of your life. But, what’s the real point of going green, and is it worth the trouble? We probably all have a general idea that going green helps the environment and saves resources and rainforests. But embracing a greener lifestyle isn’t just about helping to preserve rain forests; it is also about improving your health, saving you money, and ultimately, improving your overall quality of life.

While it’s easy to get overwhelmed with the stream of “go green” information everywhere, it’s also easy to begin making a positive impact. As globalization decreases the size of the planet in terms of contact, communication, and interaction with people around the world, it becomes increasingly easy to see how the lives of people, animals, plants, and ecosystems everywhere are closely tied to one another. So, pesticides used in Bolivia can affect the health of people in the U.S., toys made in China can affect the quality of life in Europe and greenhouse gas emissions from Australia can affect a thinning rainforest in Brazil.

The truth is, everything we do, every day, good or bad, has an impact on the planet.

The good news is that you have the power to control most of your choices at the individual level and, therefore, the control the global impact you create:

  • Where you live
  • What you buy, eat, and use
  • Where and how you vacation
  • How you shop or vote

For example, did you know that 25% of all Western pharmaceuticals are derived from plants that come from the Amazon rainforest? As it turns out, less than one percent of these tropical trees and plants have been tested by scientists. These numbers suggest that we all have a large personal stake in the health and vitality of places far and near and that this stake is growing. It benefits everyone on the planet to help keep our wild spaces alive and growing.

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Green Lifestyle

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“Dirty Little Secret” about composting with Worms?

What is the “Dirty Little Secret” about composting with Worms?  It’s that most people use plastic bins to house their worms.   Plastic is an inefficient material to use for a worm bin, as it does not breathe.
Want Proof?
Ask anyone with a plastic bin two questions:
1.  Are you constantly dealing with mud?
2.  Are you forced to dole out your food scraps to your worms, knowing that if you put all your food scraps in your worm bin, you would kill your worms.

With The

Plumb

Newest Color

, you can forget about most of the old rules of composting.  This is because of the total air flow of The Worm Inn.

No need to water with a tiny mist bottle,  you can use your hose if you would like…you can’t overwater The Worm inn.

No need to dole out your food scraps a bit at a time.  If you can feed them to worms, you can put them in The Worm Inn ….ALL AT ONCE!
Two comments I receive over and over about The Worm Inn  are:

“It’s much larger than it looks in the pictures” (But still fits in an 18″ x 18″ footprint!)
“It’s built really well”
The choice is yours.  For about the same price as a commercial plastic bin, you can have a system that forces you to dole out your fruit and vegetable waste a handful at a time….or you can have a system that allows you to process your fruit and vegetable waste by the bucketload!
Which would you choose?

Category:

Worm Bins, Worm Inn

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